7 hottest trends for this season

See our guide to the exclusive designs that dominated the spring-summer collections of the most influential brands

New perspective on grunge

Cargo trousers, distressed denim pieces, chunky combat boots, and checked flannel shirts - this season we are returning to the 90s again to focus on the then-reigning grunge style. Following the vision of top fashion houses, we're opting for sharp, rebellious and seemingly slouchy silhouettes that evoke the iconic looks of Kurt Cobain or Layne Staley. The choice is enormous since the spring-summer collections were not restricted to one rigidly defined aesthetic. Quite the contrary, each brand introduced its rendition of this legendary style, thus gaining a devoted fan base.

Voluminous cargo trousers, models made of distressed denim and practical forms in shades of rotten green were predominant in Givenchy collections. Matthieu Blazy in his collection for Bottega Veneta opted for checked shirts, while Blumarine and Balenciaga concentrated on untidy, stained jeans and oversized cargo pants. Besides its trademark denim pieces, Diesel showcased its vision of grunge in the guise of leather coats with destroyed details and patterned items in earthy colours. What will you opt for this season? See our suggestions for looks inspired by the iconic style and choose something for yourself.

Flower power

One could think that everything has been said about floral patterns, but the spring-summer collections prove that the beloved spring motif will assume a completely new and rare form. As far as floral prints are concerned, great designers have gone one step further and presented silhouettes which we can call true works of art. Jonathan Anderson is the undeniable progenitor of this eye-catching trend. Known for his unconventional style, the designer took the dead and buried anthurium flower, and used it to inspire dazzling creations for Loewe. The poisonous plant has not only taken the form of three-dimensional applications on tops and corsets but has even become a full-sized garment.

Bottega Veneta, Dries Van Noten and Acne Studios also were among the brands that presented a new approach to flowers. In the collection of the Italian brand, plants bloomed on semi-sheer chemises and bags, while the Belgian designer turned them into fabric structures applied directly on blazers, shirts, skirts and edgy pumps. Jonny Johansson, the creative director of the Scandinavian fashion house, covered transparent, form-fitting dresses with colourful flowers and converted trouser belts into flowering roses. Which proposition reflects your style best?

Experimenting with the classics

This season, the timeless denim wardrobe is evolving far beyond the classic pair of jeans or the staple trucker jacket. The spring-summer collections confirmed our conviction that even popular garments can completely transform our outfits and take them to the highest level of the avant-garde aesthetic by adopting new design features. Layered total looks seen at the Burberry, Chloé and Stella McCartney shows are perfect examples of this thesis. Riccardo Tisci decided to experiment with form, Gabriela Hearst emblazoned the fabric with ornamental tie fastenings, while the British designer vamped up the seemingly classic looks with ragged trims and exceptional faux leather inserts.

Joey top with ostrich feathers. Alongside monogrammed voluminous shorts and jackets, he juxtaposed grunge-inspired pieces made of intentionally aged denim: from baggy jeans and skirts to unique corset tops and colour-coordinated shoulder bags. A similar effect referring to the rebellious style of the 1990s was accomplished by Diesel. The Italian brand attested that it still has a lot to say about denim and spruced up this ordinary material with tulle, tassels, and lace and dyed it to achieve a sun-bleached effect.

From your bedroom to the street

Nightwear is no longer just for sleeping. Transparent, lace and mesh fabrics have been admired on the catwalks for the past few seasons, but it’s this year’s spring/summer collections that are the true culmination of this trend. Taking inspiration from silk nightgowns, sheer slips or lingerie corsets, the world's designers have taken evening fashion to a whole new level. In their exclusive ready-to-wear collections, they showed its new face through designs full of sex-appeal, as well as sensual silhouettes with a minimalist twist. The former were presented by Dolce & Gabbana, Versace and Nensi Dojaka. The Italian brands opted for bold and figure-enhancing corseted cuts, while the Albanian designer experimented with mini dresses, covering them in decorative lace and striking lurex textures.

A counterbalance to this extravagant approach was offered by the transparent and translucent designs by Saint Laurent, Fendi and Bottega Veneta. Anthony Vaccarello – a master of refined elegance – opted for perfectly tailored column dresses, while Kim Jones and Matthieu Blazy showed sheer designs inspired by petticoats. What will you choose?

Minimalism 2.0

Functionality, pragmatism and a subdued color palette. Simplicity in fashion is going strong, which is perfectly exemplified by the functional minimalism trend in the fall/winter season. As an extension of – and sometimes a twist on – the style loved by fans of the classics, designers are re-examining the charms of timelessness in fashion and casting a fresh, often unobvious look at discreet luxury. In Bottega Veneta's spring/summer collection, straight-cut shirts, jackets, as well as tops and skirts balancing between shades of beige and ecru led the way. Wool garments were interspersed with designs sewn from leather, creating a coherent and well-thought-out vision of the stylish casual for more than just one season. A lasting impression was made by silhouettes starring suit trousers from Dries Van Noten. We especially liked the oversized blazer, whose turquoise color perfectly offset the formality of the whole look.

When thinking about the spring minimalism, it’s also impossible not to mention the designs of Lanvin and Jil Sander. In the latest collection of the French fashion house, Bruno Sialelli opted for pristine coats and elegant shorts in an earthy color palette, while the brand lead by Luke and Lucie Meier dared to do even more. Alongside the monochromatic and detail-limited styles were skirts covered with cascades of feathers, tops with decorative cut-outs and dresses that flaunted sequin accents on the hips. Who said classics have to be boring?

Details matter

If austere simplicity is not for you, you might love expressive details like extravagant sequins or eye-catching maxi tassels. Designers haven’t forgotten about this group of fashionistas, offering a range of styles inspired by the crazy '80s. Shimmering sequins were showcased on the catwalks of Dolce & Gabbana, Stella McCartney, Balenciaga, Nensi Dojaka and Michael Kors. Sensual dresses and tops played the first fiddle, skirts of various lengths and nonchalant trousers made an appearance, and extravagant bodysuit and jumpsuit designs were sprinkled in here and there. Although silvery models focused the most attention, creative directors did not forget the season's most fashionable colors, such as juicy red, timeless shades of blue or the beloved pink.

As for tassels and feathers, playing with colors was in full swing. Bottega Veneta and Alexander McQueen balanced red and blue, green appeared on Victoria Beckham's bags, while Versace used shades of purple. Not limited to one shade, Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini mixed several colors at the same time in The Attico collection, while blue and timeless shades of brown reigned supreme on designs by Proenza Schouler. The duo of Jil Sander and Jacquemus presented a more subdued version of the trend – the designs were decorated with cream tassels of various lengths.

Incognito mode

The 1980s are a relatively big source of inspiration this season, because in addition to sequins and cascades of feathers, the hottest styling element of the time – the hood – has also made a return. But it’s not the type of hood inspired by sporty sweatshirts – rather, it’s the element of the iconic ‘hooded dress’ popularized in 1986 by Azzedine Alaïa's muse, Grace Jones. In the spring/summer collections we could see a great return of this sophisticated design element, as the most influential brands rediscovered its hidden possibilities and unlimited potential for experimentation.

D-SIRE-CARGO L.32 jeans. The world’s fashion houses did not limit themselves to one cut either. Exquisite draped dresses and exclusive tops led the way at the shows, but there was also no shortage of practical bodysuit designs. The color palette delighted with its diversity: black contrasted with white, shades of purple intermingled with browns, and what turned out to be the icing on the cake was lime green.

Checked shirt od Bottega Veneta Checked shirt od Bottega Veneta PERMANENT COLLECTION

Bottega Veneta

Checked shirt

Slashed jeans od Versace Slashed jeans od Versace SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Versace

Slashed jeans

Sweater with decorative slashes od Versace Sweater with decorative slashes od Versace SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Versace

Sweater with decorative slashes

Go for minimalist styles od Off-White Go for minimalist styles od Off-White SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Off-White

Go for minimalist styles

‘t-reg-g1’ t-shirt with print od Diesel ‘t-reg-g1’ t-shirt with print od Diesel SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Diesel

‘T-REG-G1’ T-shirt with print

‘d-sire-cargo l.32’ jeans od Diesel ‘d-sire-cargo l.32’ jeans od Diesel SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Diesel

‘D-SIRE-CARGO L.32’ jeans

Boots / wellies od Versace Boots / wellies od Versace SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Versace

Boots / wellies

Leather skirt od Versace Leather skirt od Versace SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Versace

Leather skirt

Patterned shirt od Dries Van Noten Patterned shirt od Dries Van Noten SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Dries Van Noten

Patterned shirt

Printed trousers od Dries Van Noten Printed trousers od Dries Van Noten SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Dries Van Noten

Printed trousers

Sweater with decorative slashes od Blumarine Sweater with decorative slashes od Blumarine SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Blumarine

Sweater with decorative slashes

Embellished mules od Victoria Beckham Embellished mules od Victoria Beckham SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Victoria Beckham

Embellished mules

Slip top with floral motif od Dolce & Gabbana Slip top with floral motif od Dolce & Gabbana SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Dolce & Gabbana

Slip top with floral motif

Floral skirt od Dolce & Gabbana Floral skirt od Dolce & Gabbana SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Dolce & Gabbana

Floral skirt

Silk shirt od Versace Silk shirt od Versace SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Versace

Silk shirt

Flower-shaped brooch od Blumarine Flower-shaped brooch od Blumarine SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Blumarine

Flower-shaped brooch

Denim jacket with logo od Versace Denim jacket with logo od Versace SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Versace

Denim jacket with logo

Flared jeans od Versace Flared jeans od Versace SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Versace

Flared jeans

Biker denim jacket od Dsquared2 Biker denim jacket od Dsquared2 SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Dsquared2

Biker denim jacket

Denim maxi skirt od Vetements Denim maxi skirt od Vetements SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Vetements

Denim maxi skirt

‘de-milly’ denim jacket od Diesel ‘de-milly’ denim jacket od Diesel SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Diesel

‘DE-MILLY’ denim jacket

‘d-ebbey-fsc’ jeans od Diesel ‘d-ebbey-fsc’ jeans od Diesel SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Diesel

‘D-EBBEY-FSC’ jeans

Denim jacket od Off-White Denim jacket od Off-White SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Off-White

Denim jacket

Jeans with cut-outs od Off-White Jeans with cut-outs od Off-White SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Off-White

Jeans with cut-outs

Corset bralette top od Versace Corset bralette top od Versace SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Versace

Corset bralette top

Dress with crinkled effect od Burberry Dress with crinkled effect od Burberry SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Burberry

Dress with crinkled effect

Trousers with floral motif od Burberry Trousers with floral motif od Burberry SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Burberry

Trousers with floral motif

Cropped shirt od Off-White Cropped shirt od Off-White SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Off-White

Cropped shirt

Trousers with logo od Off-White Trousers with logo od Off-White SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Off-White

Trousers with logo

‘abanaba’ transparent body od Jacquemus ‘abanaba’ transparent body od Jacquemus SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Jacquemus

‘Abanaba’ transparent body

Transparent top od Nensi Dojaka Transparent top od Nensi Dojaka SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Nensi Dojaka

Transparent top

Dress with openwork inserts od Burberry Dress with openwork inserts od Burberry SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Burberry

Dress with openwork inserts

Relaxed-fitting blazer od Dries Van Noten Relaxed-fitting blazer od Dries Van Noten SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Dries Van Noten

Relaxed-fitting blazer

Cargo trousers od Marni Cargo trousers od Marni SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Marni

Cargo trousers

Silk shirt od Dries Van Noten Silk shirt od Dries Van Noten SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Dries Van Noten

Silk shirt

‘plidao’ pleat-front trousers od Jacquemus ‘plidao’ pleat-front trousers od Jacquemus SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Jacquemus

‘Plidao’ pleat-front trousers

Slashed dress od JIL SANDER Slashed dress od JIL SANDER SPRING/SUMMER 2023

JIL SANDER

Slashed dress

Logo-embroidered jacket od JIL SANDER Logo-embroidered jacket od JIL SANDER SPRING/SUMMER 2023

JIL SANDER

Logo-embroidered jacket

Single-breasted blazer od Jacquemus Single-breasted blazer od Jacquemus SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Jacquemus

Single-breasted blazer

Wide-legged trousers od Gucci Wide-legged trousers od Gucci PERMANENT COLLECTION

Gucci

Wide-legged trousers

Glossy bra od Dolce & Gabbana Glossy bra od Dolce & Gabbana SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Dolce & Gabbana

Glossy bra

‘rue’ sequinned skirt od The Attico ‘rue’ sequinned skirt od The Attico SPRING/SUMMER 2023

The Attico

‘Rue’ sequinned skirt

‘joey’ top with ostrich feathers od Cult Gaia ‘joey’ top with ostrich feathers od Cult Gaia SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Cult Gaia

‘Joey’ top with ostrich feathers

‘gia’ handbag od Cult Gaia ‘gia’ handbag od Cult Gaia SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Cult Gaia

‘Gia’ handbag

Sequinned blazer od Golden Goose Sequinned blazer od Golden Goose SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Golden Goose

Sequinned blazer

Sequinned skirt od Etro Sequinned skirt od Etro SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Etro

Sequinned skirt

‘shannon’ dress with ostrich feathers od Cult Gaia ‘shannon’ dress with ostrich feathers od Cult Gaia SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Cult Gaia

‘Shannon’ dress with ostrich feathers

‘g cube’ heeled sandals od Givenchy ‘g cube’ heeled sandals od Givenchy SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Givenchy

‘G Cube’ heeled sandals

Hooded dress od Versace Hooded dress od Versace SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Versace

Hooded dress

Cropped hooded top od Versace Cropped hooded top od Versace SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Versace

Cropped hooded top

Hooded shirt od Balenciaga Hooded shirt od Balenciaga SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Balenciaga

Hooded shirt

Cashmere shawl od Burberry Cashmere shawl od Burberry SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Burberry

Cashmere shawl

Cropped top od Versace Cropped top od Versace SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Versace

Cropped top

Patterned sleeveless dress od Versace Patterned sleeveless dress od Versace SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Versace

Patterned sleeveless dress

Velvet jumpsuit od Versace Velvet jumpsuit od Versace SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Versace

Velvet jumpsuit

Hooded dress od Versace Hooded dress od Versace SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Versace

Hooded dress