7 hottest trends for this season

See our guide to the exclusive designs that dominated the spring-summer collections of the most influential brands

New perspective on grunge

Cargo trousers, distressed denim pieces, chunky combat boots, and checked flannel shirts - this season we are returning to the 90s again to focus on the then-reigning grunge style. Following the vision of top fashion houses, we're opting for sharp, rebellious and seemingly slouchy silhouettes that evoke the iconic looks of Kurt Cobain or Layne Staley. The choice is enormous since the spring-summer collections were not restricted to one rigidly defined aesthetic. Quite the contrary, each brand introduced its rendition of this legendary style, thus gaining a devoted fan base.

Voluminous cargo trousers, models made of distressed denim and practical forms in shades of rotten green were predominant in Givenchy collections. Matthieu Blazy in his collection for Bottega Veneta opted for checked shirts, while Blumarine and Balenciaga concentrated on untidy, stained jeans and oversized cargo pants. Besides its trademark denim pieces, Diesel showcased its vision of grunge in the guise of leather coats with destroyed details and patterned items in earthy colours. What will you opt for this season? See our suggestions for looks inspired by the iconic style and choose something for yourself.

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Flower power

One could think that everything has been said about floral patterns, but the spring-summer collections prove that the beloved spring motif will assume a completely new and rare form. As far as floral prints are concerned, great designers have gone one step further and presented silhouettes which we can call true works of art. Jonathan Anderson is the undeniable progenitor of this eye-catching trend. Known for his unconventional style, the designer took the dead and buried anthurium flower, and used it to inspire dazzling creations for Loewe. The poisonous plant has not only taken the form of three-dimensional applications on tops and corsets but has even become a full-sized garment.

Bottega Veneta, Dries Van Noten and Acne Studios also were among the brands that presented a new approach to flowers. In the collection of the Italian brand, plants bloomed on semi-sheer chemises and bags, while the Belgian designer turned them into fabric structures applied directly on blazers, shirts, skirts and edgy pumps. Jonny Johansson, the creative director of the Scandinavian fashion house, covered transparent, form-fitting dresses with colourful flowers and converted trouser belts into flowering roses. Which proposition reflects your style best?

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Experimenting with the classics

This season, the timeless denim wardrobe is evolving far beyond the classic pair of jeans or the staple trucker jacket. The spring-summer collections confirmed our conviction that even popular garments can completely transform our outfits and take them to the highest level of the avant-garde aesthetic by adopting new design features. Layered total looks seen at the Burberry, Chloé and Stella McCartney shows are perfect examples of this thesis. Riccardo Tisci decided to experiment with form, Gabriela Hearst emblazoned the fabric with ornamental tie fastenings, while the British designer vamped up the seemingly classic looks with ragged trims and exceptional faux leather inserts.

Matthew Williams, creative director of Givenchy, also offered his interpretation of that trend. Alongside monogrammed voluminous shorts and jackets, he juxtaposed grunge-inspired pieces made of intentionally aged denim: from baggy jeans and skirts to unique corset tops and colour-coordinated shoulder bags. A similar effect referring to the rebellious style of the 1990s was accomplished by Diesel. The Italian brand attested that it still has a lot to say about denim and spruced up this ordinary material with tulle, tassels, and lace and dyed it to achieve a sun-bleached effect.

Louis Vuitton presents the Summer 2023 Taigarama Collection

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From your bedroom to the street

Nightwear is no longer just for sleeping. Transparent, lace and mesh fabrics have been admired on the catwalks for the past few seasons, but it’s this year’s spring/summer collections that are the true culmination of this trend. Taking inspiration from silk nightgowns, sheer slips or lingerie corsets, the world's designers have taken evening fashion to a whole new level. In their exclusive ready-to-wear collections, they showed its new face through designs full of sex-appeal, as well as sensual silhouettes with a minimalist twist. The former were presented by Dolce & Gabbana, Versace and Nensi Dojaka. The Italian brands opted for bold and figure-enhancing corseted cuts, while the Albanian designer experimented with mini dresses, covering them in decorative lace and striking lurex textures.

A counterbalance to this extravagant approach was offered by the transparent and translucent designs by Saint Laurent, Fendi and Bottega Veneta. Anthony Vaccarello – a master of refined elegance – opted for perfectly tailored column dresses, while Kim Jones and Matthieu Blazy showed sheer designs inspired by petticoats. What will you choose?

Ties / bows

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Minimalism 2.0

Functionality, pragmatism and a subdued color palette. Simplicity in fashion is going strong, which is perfectly exemplified by the functional minimalism trend in the fall/winter season. As an extension of – and sometimes a twist on – the style loved by fans of the classics, designers are re-examining the charms of timelessness in fashion and casting a fresh, often unobvious look at discreet luxury. In Bottega Veneta's spring/summer collection, straight-cut shirts, jackets, as well as tops and skirts balancing between shades of beige and ecru led the way. Wool garments were interspersed with designs sewn from leather, creating a coherent and well-thought-out vision of the stylish casual for more than just one season. A lasting impression was made by silhouettes starring suit trousers from Dries Van Noten. We especially liked the oversized blazer, whose turquoise color perfectly offset the formality of the whole look.

When thinking about the spring minimalism, it’s also impossible not to mention the designs of Lanvin and Jil Sander. In the latest collection of the French fashion house, Bruno Sialelli opted for pristine coats and elegant shorts in an earthy color palette, while the brand lead by Luke and Lucie Meier dared to do even more. Alongside the monochromatic and detail-limited styles were skirts covered with cascades of feathers, tops with decorative cut-outs and dresses that flaunted sequin accents on the hips. Sweater with decorative slashes?

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Details matter

If austere simplicity is not for you, you might love expressive details like extravagant sequins or eye-catching maxi tassels. Designers haven’t forgotten about this group of fashionistas, offering a range of styles inspired by the crazy '80s. Shimmering sequins were showcased on the catwalks of Dolce & Gabbana, Stella McCartney, Balenciaga, Nensi Dojaka and Michael Kors. Sensual dresses and tops played the first fiddle, skirts of various lengths and nonchalant trousers made an appearance, and extravagant bodysuit and jumpsuit designs were sprinkled in here and there. Although silvery models focused the most attention, creative directors did not forget the season's most fashionable colors, such as juicy red, timeless shades of blue or the beloved pink.

As for tassels and feathers, playing with colors was in full swing. Bottega Veneta and Alexander McQueen balanced red and blue, green appeared on Victoria Beckham's bags, while Versace used shades of purple. Not limited to one shade, Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini mixed several colors at the same time in The Attico collection, while blue and timeless shades of brown reigned supreme on designs by Proenza Schouler. The duo of Jil Sander and Jacquemus presented a more subdued version of the trend – the designs were decorated with cream tassels of various lengths.

Dare to experiment with eye-catching details

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Incognito mode

The 1980s are a relatively big source of inspiration this season, because in addition to sequins and cascades of feathers, the hottest styling element of the time – the hood – has also made a return. But it’s not the type of hood inspired by sporty sweatshirts – rather, it’s the element of the iconic ‘hooded dress’ popularized in 1986 by Azzedine Alaïa's muse, Grace Jones. In the spring/summer collections we could see a great return of this sophisticated design element, as the most influential brands rediscovered its hidden possibilities and unlimited potential for experimentation.

G Cube heeled sandals. The world’s fashion houses did not limit themselves to one cut either. Exquisite draped dresses and exclusive tops led the way at the shows, but there was also no shortage of practical bodysuit designs. The color palette delighted with its diversity: black contrasted with white, shades of purple intermingled with browns, and what turned out to be the icing on the cake was lime green.

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